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I do not consider myself any kind of dog expert, although I have had personal and professional success working with dogs as pets, Police Patrol K-9, Drug Detection K-9, and Tracking K-9.
I have a little experience in the socializing phase of Guide Dog training. Any information I give is based on my training and experience and I am the first to admit there are many ways to train. I have received my training from a world class dog trainer, now retired, Mr Jean Claude Balu.
I hope you find the information that follows helpful in choosing/training the right dog for you.
Please refer to the attached page,
“Ask the DogMan”
for advice on specific dog training issues.
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Dogs Can Teach Us a Thing or Two
Dogs are a study in social correctness.
They pass gas when they need to and have no 'full button' so will eat until the food is gone then go somewhere and vomit in hopes of having a meal later. Pretty much revolting. However, they have good things to teach us too.
Main thing [you have to have more than one dog to see this]: when they get up in the morning they all check each other. They face lick, they smell each other and check to make sure everyone made it through the night. If you only have one dog then notice he/she will check on you as you are part of a pack. For all you chicken ranchers, you’ll notice that birds also do this. I think maybe it is something God has given them so they can teach us a thing or two.
Now we do not have to face lick or smell each other but we do need check on each other daily, especially if someone has a need or crisis. Check on your friends and neighbors. Love all men, your brothers in Christ first.
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PUPPIES AND DOGS
Dogs are social animals. They normally live in clans of related animals called packs. They have a hierarchy within the pack. They are similar to wolfs but are also domesticated. They have an alpha male and an alpha female to maintain order in the pack.
When puppies are born, they already are beginning to establish a ‘pecking order;’ each litter of pups will have an alpha emerge. They are still subservient to the adult alphas but are developing for the day when they might take over. This is how the pack evolves and continues to thrive.
At some point, when the alpha dogs are getting older, ill or injured, they will be challenged by the up and coming members of the pack. There may be 2 or 3 litters involved in the power struggle but eventually one male and one female will become the new alphas.
As an owner or trainer, YOU need to be the alpha. If you do not become the alpha, you will have problems for the entire lives of the subject dogs. If you will not take the role of alpha, one of the dogs will take the role. They need to have an alpha. The dog alpha will challenge your authority because he/she needs some authority to maintain the “pack.” If you don’t do it, they will. When they challenge you, it could be subtle or outright. They might start ignoring your instruction, Sometimes they will work up to show you aggression. This will be a later step in their attempt to be alpha. Never let the dog control a situation.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT PUP:
When you choose a puppy for a pet, then you could pick the cutest or best marked one. If it isn’t the alpha, then you will have a quiet ,obedient puppy if you exercise even minimal control. If you want an active dog or a working dog that is useful in tracking, hunting, service, search and rescue or the like, you need a dog that will be motivated to do what you want. Your best pick will be a puppy that is active in the litter, one that is alert. The one that is sitting a little away from the rest is often the best for active temperament.
As soon as you take possession (if not done before), have the vet examine him and set up the vaccination schedule. You may want to vaccinate the pup yourself but I advise a vet check the pup out anyway. Also, as appropriate, have him wormed.
When you take the puppy home, it may or may not be housebroken. The method I use to house break a puppy might work well for you too.
HOUSEBREAKING:
I control the puppy’s meals and, after he eats, I take him outside and walk him around. I do not put him on a leash if I have a controlled area. Let him walk around, let him play. Dogs require movement to loosen their bowels for solid waste relief; they urinate more often and with less exercise. Make this a play time. When he “goes,” praise him and go back to the kennel or inside, wherever he will be housed. When he has an ‘accident’ inside, take him out and try to get him to go outside. Clean up the mess and spray it with a cleaner or spray ‘urine out’ chemical to discourage his going in this spot again. This may be a process that will have to be repeated several times. Dogs, including puppies, do not like to go where they live or eat. Putting papers out protects the floor but you will still have to eventually condition the pup to go outside. If the pup sleeps in a dog crate, he should be easier to housebreak as long as you let him outside often and praise him when he “does his business.” He may “go” inside the crate but this is not what he desires.
PLAYING WITH PUPPY:
When you take the pup outside and play with him, you are starting to establish the role of alpha for yourself. If you just let him out and stay inside you are not establishing an alpha role even if you do establish that the outdoors is where you go potty. When you play, do not punish him if he bites. He is teething and also learning his limitations. Simply move his head away and tell him no. “No, hey, stop,” or any short command spoken in a deliberate and louder than normal voice tone will become a signal for the pup to pay attention and will become useful all the dog’s life. When the dog progresses and you desire that he not use his mouth when he plays, then you need to consistently stop him from doing so.
There are dogs that do bite appropriately but I do not train for this. I do allow my dogs to play rough with me and each other as I feel it gives them confidence and establishes a responsibility to protect me or the pack or the home territory.
More about this in another article.
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